2-Aug-1985 Salzburg => Vienna
Managed to pack, ship suitcase, and eat something and say goodbye to Frau Gluck and make it to the 1:40 bus. First class train ride was very nice save the 80 shillings I had to pay because I forgot to get my rail pass stamped. After much walking (I feel sore already) we made it to the International Studenthaus only to mistakingly realize that we didn’t have enough money (@6:10) so we broke the world record of being in a strange city of making it to the Bahnhof and back by 7:15 using the train and subway. Met Lance for dinner and a bit of walking. Heard fantastic Spanish folk music players with ukulele, guitars, pipes, and voices. Ate ice cream.
Trying to find the hostel in Vienna was an ordeal. We walked and walked and walked. We had the address but it was only when Frank recognized the building that matched the photograph in the brochure we were carrying that we found it. It was not on the main road. And then we had to go all the way back to the train station to get money! I can’t believe we had the strength to go out again that night. The streets were filled with performers – musicians, jugglers, etc. Much more lively than Salzburg.
3-Aug-1985 Sat. Vienna
Ate breakfast at around 8:30 with Lance. Then went to Opera house – saw tours were available, but skipped it. Sat in front and arranged itinerary. Eventually found way to the Historical Museum of Vienna by way of the Russian War Memorial – great fountain. Spent too long seeing prehistoric to 1940s paintings and artifacts. Then made our way to Belvedere. Spent too long looking at Art Museum – a lot of great works, but no time to groove on them. At that point we were incredibly hungry and made it to the Metroplatz-Interchange and ate at diner then went to Stadtpark. A real difference from the rest of the city. There’s a duck pond in the middle with large fish in it. We sat by the pond for a while and some people came and starting feeding the ducks and pigeons. The pigeons are incredibly domesticated – maybe because they’ve had to deal with man with so many more centuries. The ducks and pigeons were all over and around our feet and at a start they would fly up and all around us. The ducks would come on land, get a piece of bread, then back to the water’s edge to moisten the bread in order to swallow it. From there we saw the house where Beethoven finished the 9th — a run-down, boarded up garage type of thing. Then we came home and took a nap. Then, with Lance, we went to the Stadtpark again to eat and watch and hear the Strauss waltzes being played as people danced – left there at 9:30 and came home. I suppose it was the actual pavilion where the the waltzes were played by Strauss.
I have some pictures of Vienna that I need to post, but I don’t have them with me. The Belvedere palace was very cool, I’m surprised I didn’t write more about it — especially in comparison to my lengthy description of ducks eating bread! It took a while to get out to the house where Beethoven finished the 9th, and it was a disappointment. We could just look at it, and turn around. But even so, I remember it clearly. The juxtaposition of the rundown house against the music that was written there was somehow appropriate — more appropriate, to me, then Klimt’s gaudy Beethovenfries at the Belvedere.