5 day catch-up here… we go from the depraved, to the surreal, to the boring, to the interesting, to the beautiful, and to the lonely. Actually, it’s all surreal!
Slept most of the day – slept and read while Lance slept ’till 4pm. I ate in a Gästhof and it went well. I brought everyone else back there in the evening. At night John decided to go to every bar in Salzburg. We had every type of drink imaginable. Incredible. A huge Greek woman in a Neglige tried to pick John up. She even wanted all three of us to go up stairs with her. Lance & I had to rescue John who kept giving her money for some reason. I rescued about 500 shillings that had “by accident” dropped into her crotch, just in time. Later after running into 3 girls from somewhere we paired up and I was not interested in this so I walked off to find a place to urinate and I ran into this guy from Louisiana. We talked for a good while. Then I went back to the place I last saw John & Lance and they were gone. So I walked to the cathedral and laid on a bench in front and stared at it for about 1/2 hour whilst starting to fall asleep. So, then I started the hour walk home arriving at 2:00.
I can still hear John saying “tonight I want to go to every bar in Salzburg!” The sentence with both “3 girls from somewhere” and “this guy from Louisiana” cracks me up. I hear “Honkey Tonk Woman” when I think of that night. Not sure if that was playing in that first bar or if it just seemed that way. The whole night is really more Dylanesque.
felt horrible all day. first day of classes. I exchanged money & bought post cards. When I came from under the mountain I ran into this girl (wow!) who asked me if I spoke English. I said, “Yeah!” She wanted to know how to get to Mozart’s house. That made me feel good and the lady selling post cards was very nice…that was the highlight. John & I talked for a long time tonight. He wanted me to go out with him at 9:30! Sounds familiar.
It’s amazing the number of people that just wink in and out of scenes, yet remain pivotal figures in this story — like the smiling girl that appeared on the other side of the mountain, the other side of that previous night. John became my closest friend in Salzburg, but man he was mental with the drinking.
9-July-1985 Salzburg, not too much sun, but warm enough w/out jacket:
Second day of classes. I found out that the school is open (I have access to a piano) until 5:00 daily. Had Mozart tour with this old Australian professor who had to be translated. He could hardly do it in German! And most of the info he gave I knew and some was incorrect. But he was someone who had permission to play the Mozart pianos. (the clavichord & the forte piano he travelled with). He didn’t play very well. There’s a record that can be bought only at the Mozart house of a real piano player playing on the original instruments. It’s about 7.50 which is not bad at all. Most things, I’m finding out are very inexpensive. As of Sunday I had spent only the 20 dollars I exchanged in N.Y. If the weather gets bad I may have to buy a scarf. Leopold & Constance are supposedly buried in St. Peters, but I couldn’t find them. Bought some yogurt, cookies and soap. Sat by the river for a short while after supper & came home & took a shower. I was told that a tour of the fortress is really beneficial and takes you places you can’t go yourself.
I loved sitting by the river, and think of it frequently. I had really fallen in love with the place by now. Having that piano around was a godsend. BTW Leopold and Constance are Mozart’s father and wife. It was “Fa” soap — I carried it with me all over Europe!
10-July-1985 Salzburg, sunny, raining, warm, cold:
Showed Dr. McVoy piece I was working on after class. After lunch figured out how to do laundry. The lady at the laundromat assured me that my cotton pants would not shrink. I haven’t tried them on yet. She had me stuff all of it in one tiny washer. It cost 79 shillings. While waiting for laundry I went to the classroom and played for a bit, then, for some stupid reason I came all the way home for about an hour & had to leave again to get laundry. I came home w/ my laundry at 6:30 (dinner time). There’s a concert tonight at the Univeristät at 8, so I, after changing into good clothes, caught the bus which got me there just barely. I felt bad because the first piece played was Bartok and I wasn’t sure that it was (I had to ask McVoy). I knew some of it was but not all of it. After concert I walked around in my Trenchcoat. They have all the important buildings lit up with spot lights at night (the Dom, fortress, statues, etc.) Really exciting. I found the most romantic spot on a bench against the Dom which looks toward a statue (fountain) of Neptune, with the fortress bright above. It’s strange — I walked slowly toward the wall of the Dom, it’s so huge that it seems to rise forth and forth, skyward as one walks towards it. Really powerful and enticing. It was kind of cold so I was glad to have my Coat. I could have brought my herringbone jacket instead of the light one. It really does get cold here. The weather’s been totally wild recently. I was told that just before I woke up it was thundering & lightning violently. But then by 10:00 it was beautiful – then about 3 it started raining and by 4:30 it was nice again. It rained a little tonight. John & Joel left for Paris tonight and Al and Kevin are both going to Switzerland so that leaves Lance & me & Frau Glück.
11-July-1985 Salzburg sehr shön
Actually, Al didn’t go to Switzerland. After lunch I walked around Mirabell Gardens. Saw Dwarf garden & statue of Copernicus. There was a stairwell inside the house that circled up. On the bannisters were slightly larger than life baby statues pointing their fingers in arbitrary directions. Then sat by river & read Mozart. Then went to school & played until 5:00. Got some good ideas in my head — walked outside & wrote some down. I felt more creative than usual. After dinner – walked up hill opposite Altstädt on other side of river. Heard all the bells in the city go off. Extremely powerful experience, especially from up high. Walked around Altstädt, saw chess game, people throwing frisbees. Seeing a lot of people with their girl/boyfriend made me feel lonely so I went home – got home at 9:30.
I’m telling you, those baby statues were flipped out. The sound of all those church bells haunts me to this day…